London – Bonhams New Bond Street presents its anticipated London Jewels sale on 5 December. The 150-lot sale features a spectacular collection of jewellery from impressive single-owner collections including jewels from the Collection of Dame Joan Collins. London Jewels spans the 18th to 21st centuries featuring fine natural pearls, certificated coloured diamonds and fine coloured gemstones including Burmese sapphires and rubies, Colombian emeralds and period pieces by coveted names of Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, Giuliano, Grima, Kutchinsky, Lalique, Mauboussin and Van Cleef & Arpels.
Leading the sale is a natural pearl, ruby and diamond necklace, originating from a private single-owner collection. The design features five strands of natural pearls graduating in size towards the centre, accented by a pair of ruby and diamond floral spacers. Each floral motif features a central old brilliant-cut diamond, issuing a radiating surround of oval-cut rubies with single-cut diamond accents, the pavé-set brilliant and single-cut diamond petals are further accented by baguette-cut diamonds. Offered with an estimate of £150,000-250,000.
Another notable lot is a sapphire and diamond necklace, from the mid-19th century originating from a private UK collection. Designed as a graduated series of openwork plaques, each centrally set with a cushion or oval-cut sapphire of Sri Lankan origin, surrounded by cushion and pear-shaped diamonds, connected by cushion and rose-cut diamond-set coronette and figure eight knot links, the clasp set with a sapphire cabochon. Offered with an estimate of £75,000-100,000.
Kate Flitcroft, Bonhams Co-Head of Department, Jewellery, UK, commented: "Our London Jewels sale features several single-owner collections of antique and signed 20th century jewels. Leading the sale is a superb five-strand natural pearl necklace and a 1.77cts Fancy Intense Green diamond ring by Boodles. Other highlights include a 19th century sapphire and diamond necklace and a circa 1830s Light Pink diamond ring with a charming heart-shaped diamond surround. Striking private collections of post-war pieces by Grima and Kutchinsky also feature alongside a wide variety of jewels by coveted names such as Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, Giuliano, Lalaounis, Lalique, Mauboussin, Masriera, Sterlé and Van Cleef & Arpels. We're also proud to present a selection of jewels from the Collection of Dame Joan Collins which includes three of her cherished pieces by Buccellati, all set with diamonds and coloured gems."
London Jewels includes eight jewels from the Collection of Dame Joan Collins, the British stage, film and television actress, accomplished producer, and a published author. She made her stage debut at the age of nine and made her first British film at seventeen, within one year of leaving RADA in London. Dame Joan has performed on Broadway, the West End, and in national tours across the UK and North America. Joan was awarded an OBE for her services to the arts in 1997 and in 2015, she was made a DBE for her lifetime contribution to charitable causes. Dame Joan is passionately committed to many charitable organizations with a particular focus on women, children, and the family unit.
Notable lots from the Collection of Dame Joan Collins include three exceptional Buccellati designs:
· A Mario Buccellati ruby and diamond collar necklace, circa 1960. Each square plaque is set with a ruby cabochon, accented by single-cut diamonds and finely engraved texture in the rigato style. Offered with an estimate of £12,000-18,000.
· A pair of Buccellati ruby and diamond pendent earrings, circa 1965. Offered with an estimate of £7,000-10,000.
· A Buccellati heliodor dress ring, circa 1960. The oval-cut heliodor is set between engraved bicoloured foliate shoulders. Offered with an estimate of £6,000-8,000.
London Jewels includes significant coloured diamonds:
· Boodles diamond and coloured diamond ring, from 2016. The design features a radiant-cut Fancy Intense Green diamond, of SI1 clarity, weighing 1.77 carats, the gallery and crossover surround are pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Offered with an estimate of £100,000-150,000.
· A diamond, coloured diamond and sapphire earrings. Each radiant-cut fancy light yellow diamond, weighing 6.87 carats of VS1 clarity and 7.11 carats of VVS1 clarity, set within an undulating border of tapered baguette-cut diamonds, each issuing a pear-shaped sapphire. Offered with an estimate of £60,000-80,000.
· A coloured diamond and diamond ring, circa 1830. The old pear-shaped diamond of light pink colour, of I1 clarity, weighing 2.27 carats, is set within a heart-shaped surround of cushion-shaped and old brilliant-cut diamonds, between scrolling openwork shoulders. Offered with an estimate of £50,000-70,000.
Notable coloured gemstones include:
· A sapphire and diamond ring. The oval-cut sapphire of Burmese origin, weighing 9.72 carats, is set within a marquise-shaped diamond surround. Offered with an estimate of £40,000-60,000.
· A Boucheron emerald and diamond ring. The step-cut emerald of Colombian origin, weighing 7.34 carats, mounted on brilliant-cut diamond-set shoulders and gallery. The ring is offered with an estimate of £60,000-80,000.
· A Cartier ruby, diamond and enamel brooch, circa 1925. Modelled as a woodpecker resting on a baguette-cut diamond perch, pavé-set throughout with brilliant and single-cut diamonds, the cabochon ruby wing is carved with foliate motifs, and the tail is set with calibré-cut buff-top rubies. The feet, tail and breast are decorated with black enamel, with the head set with a cabochon ruby eye and a black and red enamel beak. Offered with an estimate of £15,000-20,000.
· Abate garnet and diamond bracelet, circa 1940. The bracelet is formed of two halves, the first of graduated baton-shaped links with cabochon garnet terminals, alternating with triple brilliant-cut diamond motifs, the second half of conical shaped drops suspended from individual cabochon garnet links, the goldwork features highly decorative floral engraving. Offered with an estimate of £10,000-15,000.
Natural pearls designs include:
· A natural pearl and diamond ring, circa 1935. The natural saltwater pearls are set within a pierced and sculptural surround of brilliant and single-cut diamonds, with baguette and trilliant-cut diamond accents, between a band with pavé-set single-cut diamond shoulders. Offered with an estimate of £6,000-8,000.
· A pair of natural pearl and diamond pendent earclips. Each drop-shaped natural pearl is suspended within a foliate wreath set with brilliant and single-cut diamonds, via a rose-cut diamond cap and a natural pearl surmount. Offered with an estimate of £20,000-30,000.
· A natural pearl and diamond necklace with two rows of graduating natural saltwater pearls, on an emerald-cut diamond clasp. Offered with an estimate of £50,000-80,000.
Post-war designs include:
· A Boucheron amethyst, diamond and gem-set cuff, circa 1970. The textured cuff, centering a large oval-cut amethyst, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, cabochon turquoise, chrysoprase and amethysts. Offered with an estimate of £10,000-15,000.
· A Grima amethyst and diamond ring. The sugarloaf cabochon amethyst is set in a pierced mount of textured wire with brilliant-cut diamond accents. Offered with an estimate of £4,000-6,000.
· A Kutchinsky onyx, coral and diamond brooch, circa 1973. Designed as six interlocking onyx and coral corallium rubrum hoops with textured 18 carat gold terminal links, set with a cluster of brilliant-cut diamonds and onyx cabochon. Offered with an estimate of £2,000-3,000.
Signed period jewel highlights include:
· A Chaumet emerald and diamond necklace, bracelet and earclip suite, circa 1915. The graduation of cabochon and sugarloaf emeralds set within surrounds of single or rose-cut diamonds, between old brilliant-cut diamond spacers, the earclips similarly-set. Offered with an estimate of £40,000-60,000.
· A Carlo and Arthur Giuliano enamel and gem-set necklace, circa 1900. The highly articulated necklace is composed of swags of scrolling motifs decorated with black and white enamel, set centrally with a graduation of mixed cut green and blue-green sapphires, suspending a bouton-shaped pearl drop of grey tint, accented by cushion-shaped green sapphire, circular and French-cut garnets, terminating with seed pearl finials. Offered with an estimate of £20,000-30,000.
· A Masriera Y Carreras art nouveau diamond and enamel pendant, circa 1900. Designed as a winged nymph, the green plique-à-jour enamel wings, set within a rose-cut diamond frame, surrounded by iridescent pink enamel floral motifs accented with brilliant and single-cut diamonds, issuing an emerald bead drop, suspending from a faceted cable-link chain. Offered with an estimate of £15,000-20,000.