New Bond Street – Bonhams London Jewels saw a rare Chaumet diamond necklace, circa 1900 featuring old brilliant and rose-cut diamonds, steal the show at London Jewels on 21 September. Suspending a fringe of drops pavé-set with old brilliant and table-cut, cushion, and pear-shaped diamonds, each with a delicate rose-cut diamond laurel-leaf surmount, the necklace surpassed its top estimate by double to achieve £305,200.

Another notable lot was an Art Deco sapphire and diamond platinum ring, circa 1920. The fancy-cut sugarloaf cabochon Kashmir origin sapphire weighing 7.12 carats is surrounded by a single-cut diamond with shoulders accented by similarly cut diamonds and pear-shaped cabochon sapphires. The ring achieved £248,050, more than double its pre-sale estimate.

Emily Barber, Bonhams Head of Jewellery, UK, commented: "The selection of jewels represented best-in-class examples of jewellery design from the 19th and 20th centuries. There was fierce competition from international buyers for rare antique and period jewellery including the Chaumet necklace, which is an exquisite survivor from the glamorous Belle Époque era, and an Art Deco ring set with a 7.12 carat sugarloaf sapphire of Kashmir origin."

Other highlights included:

• A late 19th century diamond cluster necklace of sixteen clusters, collet-set old brilliant-cut diamond within a target surround of old-brilliant-cut diamonds of approximately 50.00 carats. The necklace achieved £127,400, more than double its pre-sale estimate.

• A pair of Van Cleef & Arpels diamond 'Disques' platinum earclips, circa 1935, with spiralling pavé-set brilliant and old brilliant-cut diamonds radiating from a border of baguette-cut diamonds. The earrings achieved £51,200, above the pre-sale estimate.

• A Garrard emerald and diamond ring. The step-cut Colombian origin emerald within a surround of tapered baguette and triangular-cut diamonds between baguette and calibré-cut diamond shoulders achieved £203,600, more than four times its pre-sale estimate.

• An emerald and diamond ring. The step-cut emerald of Colombian origin is set between tapered baguette-cut diamonds. The ring achieved £70,250, more than three times its pre-sale estimate.

• Two charming and highly unusual garnet and gem-set turtle brooches mounted in gold, circa 1860: one with a central garnet cabochon carved to resemble a shell, set within a surround of garnet cabochons decorated with cushion-shaped and old brilliant-cut diamonds. The turtles head, feet and tail are set with pearls with circular-cut ruby accents. The brooch achieved £15,360, more than its pre-sale estimate.

The other turtle has a carved garnet shell within a surround of cushion-shaped and old brilliant-cut diamonds and green guilloché enamel decoration, the head is accented by step-cut emeralds. The lot sold for £17,920, more than its pre-sale estimate.

28 September 2023