
Sharon Chan
Head of department, Director of Watches, Asia
Sold for HK$61,440 inc. premium
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Daniel Roth's journey as a watchmaker tells a compelling tale of innovation and adaptation. Initially, between 1989 and 1995, the brand focused on catering to collectors by using exceptional hand-wound chronograph movements, such as the modern and vintage Nouvelle Lémania 2320. This strategy reflected an emphasis on artistry and tradition.
However, after its acquisition by the Singaporean luxury retailer Hour Glass in 1995–1996, Daniel Roth shifted its approach. Prioritizing practicality, the brand began producing automatic chronographs, notably featuring the caliber 400—nicknamed "El Primero"—manufactured by Zenith. This movement, later designated as DR500, became a cornerstone for the brand's automatic chronographs until its closure in the 2010s.
A defining characteristic of these Daniel Roth "El Primero" chronographs is their reclining date indicator, which sets them apart from most contemporary Swiss chronographs. This charming detail exemplifies the brand's unique identity and flair.