
Sharon Chan
Head of department, Director of Watches, Asia
HK$650,000 - HK$1,200,000
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Within Cartier's esteemed ranks, the Cintrée remains the pinnacle, yet the new Privé Normale defies its moniker by being far from ordinary. Despite the presence of similar models like the Tank Louis Cartier and Tank Must, aficionados of vintage pieces have felt the absence of the authentic, original Tank. However, this gap was finally filled in 2023 with the introduction of the Tank Normale yellow gold and platinum bracelet models, limited to 100 pieces each.
Both models feature brushed silver with Roman numerals and the classic "railroad track" minute markers. The watches bear the updated Cartier signature, reminiscent of the bolder styles from the 1920s. Notably, the "Swiss Made" inscription encircles the VI numeral, and the V in "VII" cleverly incorporates the date "1917." The hands are styled after the "epée" hands from the 1940s Normales, with blue hands complementing the yellow gold and silver for the platinum. The case dimensions have been adjusted to a more contemporary yet classic size of 32.6 mm x 25.7 mm that appeals across various wrist sizes. Under the hood both watches feature the hand-wound Caliber 070 from Le Temps Manufacture, the smallest movement available to the brand.
The case's vertical satin-brushing is executed flawlessly, contrasting beautifully with the high-polish chamfers on the sides, leading seamlessly into the satin-finished bracelet, which stands out as the first Privé watch presented on a bracelet. The bracelet's closure mechanism is elegantly designed, lacking any pushers and maintaining a clean appearance, a departure from the vintage models' visible closure indicators. The current lot, in pristine condition, is a part of a set of both the yellow gold and platinum versions, and both deliver an impressive and luxurious experience on the wrist. Attention to detail and commitment to quality are evident in every aspect of these timepieces, making them a worthy addition to the legacy of Cartier's Tank watches.