Sharon Chan
Head of department, Director of Watches, Asia
Property of a Gentleman
Lot 929
ROLEX | SUBMARINER, REF.5513, A RARE AND COMPLETE STAINLESS STEEL BRACELET WATCH, CIRCA 1977
Amended
22 – 23 June 2022, 16:00 HKT
Hong Kong, Six Pacific PlaceSold for HK$191,250 inc. premium
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ROLEX | SUBMARINER, REF.5513, A RARE AND COMPLETE STAINLESS STEEL BRACELET WATCH, CIRCA 1977
Case No: 3863403
Calibre: 1520, automatic, signed
Dial: Black, signed
Case: 39mm, stainless steel, screw down case back, signed
Bracelet: Stainless steel, folding clasp, approximately 178mm, signed
Accompaniments: Maker's presentation box, punched certificate, service receipt, service guarantee card, NY service letter, 2 spare links and anchor accessory
Calibre: 1520, automatic, signed
Dial: Black, signed
Case: 39mm, stainless steel, screw down case back, signed
Bracelet: Stainless steel, folding clasp, approximately 178mm, signed
Accompaniments: Maker's presentation box, punched certificate, service receipt, service guarantee card, NY service letter, 2 spare links and anchor accessory
Footnotes
勞力士，「Submariner」5513型號，罕有精鋼自動上弦鏈帶腕錶，年份約1977。附原廠錶盒、證書、保養證明、服務保證卡、美國維修中心信函、兩格錶鏈及勞力士船錨配件。
Throughout the 1970s Rolex supplied watches to the British Military for use by the Special Forces, that is, the so-called Submariner 5513 Milsub. Around 1200 pieces were manufactured over the decades, most of them were somehow modified. The present example, however, is referred to as the "full-spec" MilSub as it retained all the key variations that define this watch against a typical 5513. The special bezel with one-minute increments all the way around, the sword-shaped hands, and the circle-T logo at six o'clock to specify that the watch applies tritium lume, giving this piece strong character and presence on the wrist.
The present Submariner 5513 is offered by a Japanese gentleman who works as an independent designer. After working for Issey Miyake for many years, he turned independent in 1986, and he had always wanted to find something special to commemorate his independence. In 1996, he attended a British fair took place at the Isetan Shinjuku department store in Tokyo. That was where he found this Rolex Submariner 5513. The gentleman has been interested in military elements such as aircrafts and ships, he often integrated military traits and functionality into his fashion designs. Thus he was intrigued when he learned the fact that the present watch was made specially for the British Navy and Air Force. Furthermore, he was informed that this watch was from the original owner and was made in the 70s, which was the period when he started planning independence on his designer career. As a result, he believed this was a fateful encounter and he bought this watch right away. The watch was carefully preserved ever since. The gentleman only wore it on special occasions. It has never been worn underwater nor been exposed to the sunlight. Although the watch is not presented with manufacturer's paperwork, you can still tell from the patina dots and hands, the dial, and the movement that it was kept in excellent and attractive overall condition.
It is important to note that the inner case stamped number is different from its case number. According to what the original owner informed the Japanese designer, it was probably swapped when the watch was serviced by the military. No one in world is able to clarify the mystery. However, this mystery certainly makes the present watch a rare example. It also represents a fact that the watch had served in the military, and should be warmly recommended to any vintage watch collector.
Saleroom notices
Please disregard the footnote and refer to the condition report. 更正之注腳請參閱狀況報告。
