A 'mystery-set' sapphire "Cosmos" brooch, by Van Cleef and Arpels, image 1

A 'mystery-set' sapphire "Cosmos" brooch, by Van Cleef and Arpels, image 2

Lot 102

A 'mystery-set' sapphire "Cosmos" brooch,
by Van Cleef and Arpels, circa 1989

Fine Jewellery

5 December 2018, 14:00 GMT

London, New Bond Street

Sold for £68,750 inc. premium

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A 'mystery-set' sapphire "Cosmos" brooch, by Van Cleef and Arpels, circa 1989

Designed as an invisibly-set calibré-cut sapphire flower blossom with a brilliant-cut diamond pistil, weighing 0.84 carat, on a baguette-cut diamond stem, signed Van Cleef Arpels, maker's mark, numbered, French assay marks, length 4.2cm, maker's pouch

Footnotes

Accompanied by a purchase receipt from Van Cleef & Arpels, Monte Carlo, dated 21 November 1989.

This style, known as 'Serti Mystérieux' or 'Mystery Setting', was developed in the early 20th century by several French jewellers, however it was perfected and patented in France in 1933 by Van Cleef & Arpels. Only a select few master craftsmen have been trained in this highly complex setting technique. Even today, Van Cleef & Arpels make only a few 'Mystery Set' jewels each year due to the time and expertise required. Burmese rubies and sapphires have been the gemstones of choice due to their durability and intense beauty. The stones are perfectly cut and aligned against each other and placed on invisible gold rails to create a seamless ground of colour, uninterrupted by metal. The "Cosmos" collection by Van Cleef & Arpels, featuring the distinctive quatrefoil flower with heart-shaped petals, dates back to the 1950s.

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