A pair of 'mystery-set' sapphire "Cosmos" earclips, by Van Cleef & Arpels, image 1

A pair of 'mystery-set' sapphire "Cosmos" earclips, by Van Cleef & Arpels, image 2

Lot 101

A pair of 'mystery-set' sapphire "Cosmos" earclips,
by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1991

Fine Jewellery

5 December 2018, 14:00 GMT

London, New Bond Street

Sold for £81,250 inc. premium

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A pair of 'mystery-set' sapphire "Cosmos" earclips, by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1991

Designed as two invisibly-set calibré-cut sapphire flowerheads, each with a brilliant-cut diamond pistil, diamonds 0.86 carat total, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, maker's mark, numbered, French assay marks, length 2.8cm, maker's pouch

Footnotes

Accompanied by a purchase receipt from Van Cleef & Arpels, Monte Carlo, dated 19 April 1991.

This style, known as 'Serti Mystérieux' or 'Mystery Setting', was developed in the early 20th century by several French jewellers, however it was perfected and patented in France in 1933 by Van Cleef & Arpels. Only a select few master craftsmen have been trained in this highly complex setting technique. Even today, Van Cleef & Arpels make only a few 'Mystery Set' jewels each year due to the time and expertise required. Burmese rubies and sapphires have been the gemstones of choice due to their durability and intense beauty. The stones are perfectly cut and aligned against each other and placed on invisible gold rails to create a seamless ground of colour, uninterrupted by metal. The "Cosmos" collection by Van Cleef & Arpels, featuring the distinctive quatrefoil flower with heart-shaped petals, dates back to the 1950s.

Additional information

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