Lot 48
An Art Deco hardstone seal, gem-set and enamel jewel, French, circa 1925
26 September 2018, 14:00 BST
London, New Bond StreetSold for £43,750 inc. premium
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An Art Deco hardstone seal, gem-set and enamel jewel, French, circa 1925
Originally a shoulder ornament, composed of five chalcedony seals or amulets, of various hues, four rectangular, one oval, each engraved with a Qur'anic script and framed by black enamel and brilliant and single-cut diamond ogee motifs, connected by black enamel and rose-cut diamond circular links with emerald and ruby bead highlights, converted to a bracelet, French marks including a partial French workshop mark, length 22.5cm
Footnotes
Provenance
Sir Alfred Chester Beatty
Sheila Wingfield, Lady Powerscourt
Descent to the current owner
The script in the central seal is from Qu'ran chapter II (Al-Baqarah), verse 255 in the borders, with the names of God in the centre, with the Shahada at the sides. The two carnelian seals bear identical inscriptions: the Shahadah in the centre and Qu'ran Chapter II (Al-Baqarah), verse 255, in the borders. The two outer seals bear the names God, Muhammad, Ali, Fatimah, Hasan and Husayn, the borders with Qu'ran, Chapter CXII (al-Ikhlas) and the middle band with Qu'ran, chapter CXIV (al-Nas).
During the early 20th century various exhibitions of Islamic art in Paris stimulated contemporary taste for exoticism in fashionable society. Parisian society hostesses held a series of Persian costume balls in 1912-13 and Cartier began offering jewels in "arabe" taste from c.1913 until the 1930s. Although unsigned, in terms of design and quality of manufacture, this jewel is comparable to a Cartier creation from this period; the carved seals or amulets dating from the 19th century or early 20th century, have been offset by Persian-inspired decorative mounts.
