Lot 34Y
Cartier. A very fine diamond-set jade, onyx, coral, beryl and gold Chinoiserie desk clockAttributed to Maurice Couet, Paris, movement signed by European Watch & Clock Co. Circa 1927
Amended
4 December 2017, 10:00 EST
New YorkSold for US$212,500 inc. premium
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Cartier. A very fine diamond-set jade, onyx, coral, beryl and gold Chinoiserie desk clock
Attributed to Maurice Couet, Paris, movement signed by European Watch & Clock Co.
Date: Circa 1927
Movement: 15-jewel adjusted divided ¾ plate, lever escapement, bimetallic balance, no. 3413
Dial: diamond roman chapters set in platinum applied to case, diamond-set hands
Case: shaped rectangular with integral bail handle carved from single block of pale green jade, engine turned circular movement cover secured by two screws, suspended by a beryl-set bail from onyx crosspiece between onyx pillars each on stepped pediment, carved coral finials
Signed: Movement signed E. W. C. Co. France, winder stamped 1069, French restricted warranty mark on one gold mount
Date: Circa 1927
Movement: 15-jewel adjusted divided ¾ plate, lever escapement, bimetallic balance, no. 3413
Dial: diamond roman chapters set in platinum applied to case, diamond-set hands
Case: shaped rectangular with integral bail handle carved from single block of pale green jade, engine turned circular movement cover secured by two screws, suspended by a beryl-set bail from onyx crosspiece between onyx pillars each on stepped pediment, carved coral finials
Signed: Movement signed E. W. C. Co. France, winder stamped 1069, French restricted warranty mark on one gold mount
Footnotes
The present clock is a fine example of the Chinese style adopted by Cartier in the 1920's to satisfy the then prevailing taste for Chinoiserie.
The combination of black onyx, coral and jade was often employed at this time for both jewelry and objets de vertu.
An ivory and onyx bracelet soudanais of 1919 incorporates carved coral beads identical to those found on this clock (Rudoe, no. 187).
A closely similar coral mounted jade pendant clock, illustrated by Cartier (1976, no. 39), is dated c. 1927.
Two notable clocks supplied to Cartier by Maurice Couet in 1927 are closely related in form and material to this clock. The first is a unique jade dialed gravity clock suspended within an onyx portico on a molded base with red coral accents to the pillars (Rudoe, no. 122). The second is a mystery clock in the form of a carved jade screen framed with coral and supported by shaped onyx columns enhanced with bands of cabochon green beryl (Rudoe, no. 107). A similarly carved coral bead conceals the link between the screen and the movement hidden in the base. It is highly likely that the present clock is also a 1927 product of the Couet workshop.
References:
Rudoe, Judy. Cartier 1900 – 1939. Metropolitan Museum of Art (1997)
Cartier. Retrospective – Louis Cartier: One Hundred & One Years of the Jeweler's Art (1976)
Saleroom notices
Height 13.2cm Width 8cm Depth 5.7cm
