Caroline Morrissey
Senior Vice President, International Director
Lot 132
A fine ruby and diamond clip brooch, Cartier, circa 1935
Amended
24 April 2017, 15:00 EDT
New YorkSold for US$367,500 inc. premium
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A fine ruby and diamond clip brooch, Cartier, circa 1935
of geometric design, centering a marquise mixed-cut ruby, weighing 3.54 carats, amid an openwork pavé-set frame of round brilliant-cut diamonds, with baguette-cut diamond accents, further enhanced by six round cabochon rubies, topped with sugarloaf rubies and square-shaped diamonds; signed Cartier, no.7173; estimated total diamond weight: 5.15 carats; mounted in platinum; length: 1 1/2in.
Footnotes
Accompanied by AGL report # 1080478, dated December 7, 2016, stating the ruby as: Classic Burmese (Myanmar) origin, no indications of heat or clarity enhancement.
This diamond and ruby brooch reflects the evolution of style; from art deco to art moderne. Gone are the strong, flat, colorful, geometric lines, as these were replaced by the more sculptural aesthetic found in jewelry of the mid-1930s.
From 1915-1930, the Russian, Egyptian, Indian, Persian and Oriental inspirations, which had dominated jewelry, began to wane and were substituted by a diamond and single colored gemstone palette which found favor by 1935.
These all-diamond or bicolored jeweled creations were expressed with a variety of classic and fancy cut stones – round brilliant-cut, step-cut, baguette or baton cut, hexagonal, buff top, and cabochons - were utilized instead of black onyx, coral, mother-of-pearl, jade, turquoise, enamel, faience and artifacts, which had been used previously. Also gone were the flatness of the jewels; layered gemstones, brought a fresh three dimensionality to these more modern designs - jewels became more engaging with attention to negative and positive space.
From the mid-1930s Cartier created and sold predominantly sculptural, mono-chromatic and diamond jewelry. While gemstone preferences of sapphire, emerald, aquamarine, topaz and turquoise can be found, very few ruby examples exist.
Cartier used gemstones of exceptional quality to create a strong dynamic for these new designs. The focal point of this ruby and diamond clip is this rare, unheated Classic Burma ruby. The seldom used marquise-cut ruby draws your eye to the center of the brooch because of its beautiful rich red color, hue and shape. Framed by negative space and outlined with pave-set and fancy-cut diamonds and sumptuous buff top rubies at the edge, this clip provides an elaborate, yet simple, showcase for an exquisite gemstone.
Saleroom notices
Please note, the exact date of manufacture is 1931. This lot will also be accompanied by a letter from the AGL, confirming that the center Ruby is Pigeon Blood red in color.
